I have often been led through far corners of the world by the late and great Anthony Bourdain. It’s how I found the crispiest lechon in the Philippines, how I ended up with a stranger turned friend drinking clear whiskey in northern Thailand, how I celebrated my birthday in NYC over mutton at Keen’s Steakhouse. Safe to say, food recommendations by Bourdain have never led me to a bad meal, so when I found myself in the culinary capital of France, Lyon, I knew to best set myself up for minimal disappointment (which, spoiler, there was 0 disappointment in anything I ate in Lyon), I should follow some of Bourdain’s recs.
While I didn’t order everything he did and I didn’t go everywhere he went, here’s what I ate in Lyon in the footsteps of the late and great Bourdain.
Pro-tip: If you don’t want to plan, take this guided evening food tour of Lyon.
Where I went: Bouchon Comptoir Brunet
What I ate: Lyonnaise salad, quenelle, chocolate ganache cake
This was my first meal in Lyon and it set the bar high. I traveled to Lyon on a whim, and because I came so last minute, I was unable to successfully snag reservations to any of the restaurants I wanted to try. I knew I had to wing it and hope for the best. My top sought-after spot was Bouchon Comptoir Brunet, not only because Bourdain tried it, but because the reviews are so top-notch.
Bouchon Comptoir Brunet opens for dinner at 7PM sharp. Since I couldn’t make a reservation online, I walked over there about 30 minutes before they opened. I saw some employees outside and asked them if I would be able to get a table that night. This move is why I was able to dine there. They told me to come right back at 7PM and they could seat me. To kill time, I went to a bar next door, which, at first I was weary because it seemed like there were only men there. I quickly realized it was a gay bar, and upon learning that, I felt MUCH more comfortable (and got lots of compliments on my sparkly earrings. Merci, boys!).
I went back to Bouchon Comptoir Brunet at 7PM and was swiftly seated. The restaurant filed up almost immediately upon opening, and I watched several parties of people get turned away.
I ordered the Lyonnaise salad to start, which is crisp lettuce with a poached egg, lardon, and soft shallots. Hardly a salad, but instead what feels like a deconstructed breakfast sandwich, poking that yolk as it poured over the lettuce was as satisfying to witness as it was to taste.
For my main course, I ordered in infamous quenelle, a baked Lyonnaise specialty which is typically filled with meat or seafood. The one at Bouchon Comptoir Brunet is not served with any protein, and instead is a soft bread-like texture all the way throughout. The sauce is thick, and is perfect for eating by the spoonful if you’re shameless like me. I completely licked the plate clean.
The server came over, witnessing my incredulous ability to eat without leaving a crumb, and said (insert typical French accent), “I don’t suppose you want to dessert?” Um, actually, sir, I absolutely want dessert. I ordered a chocolate ganache cake, which was rich, dense, and not shy whatsoever on the chocolate.
My meal at Bouchon Comptoir Brunet might have been my favorite meal in Lyon, because it made me realize what a treat I was in for by being in this culinary city.
Where I went: Les Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse
What I ate: Charcuterie Lyonnaise, Saucisson Brioche
Paul Bocuse is one of the most famous chefs to come out of Lyon, and while he has restaurants all over town, some are difficult to get into and cost a pretty penny. Bourdain bases a lot of his Lyon episode around hanging out with Paul Bocuse, and highlighting how Bocuse has helped shape Lyon into such a highly regarded culinary destination. Needing to try something from the well-respected chef but not wanting to spend a ridiculous amount, I decided to visit Les Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse, a food hall with several stalls.
The only problem? About 95% of the stalls were closed because it was Monday AND August. Many establishments are closed on Mondays in Lyon, and the majority of western Europeans take the month of August off, so I was really hit with a double whammy. I was disappointed, but not all hope was lost. The restaurant in the back of the food hall was open, and I was able to get a table.
I sat down and almost immediately ordered a glass of wine and the charcuterie Lyonnaise. I am pretty patient when it comes to service since I was a bartender for ten years in NYC, but I waited over 40 minutes for the wine to come (43 minutes to be exact, because I timed it). In any other scenario, I would have walked out by that point, but knowing it was Monday, August, and now around 2:30PM (when most restaurants in France close around 3PM after lunch), I was too hungry to risk it. The staff did seem apologetic and insinuated they had forgotten about me (they were quite busy), but 43 minutes is a ridiculous amount of time to wait for… wine.
Lyon is well-known for its love of all parts of the pig, so their charcuterie game is unique compared to elsewhere. I tried a variety of cured meats (note that French charcuterie is simply meat, no cheese), and while it was good, it was the only thing I ate in Lyon that was a one and done for me.
After my charcuterie Lyonnaise, I ordered saucisson brioche, a brioche baked with a sausage in it, and the sausage is filled with pistachios. It might sound strange, but buttery brioche with salty and slightly smokey sausage paired with the subtle sweetness of pistachios is somewhat of a masterpiece. Though I was skeptical when ordering it, this dish was good.
Where I went: Cafe Comptoir Abel
What I ate: Filet with morel mushrooms, rice, chocolate ganache cake
On my final stop of my eating-like-Bourdain-through-Lyon venture, I went to Cafe Comptoir Abel. Similarly to Bouchon Comptoir Brunet, I was worried about being able to get a table here since it’s quite popular. However, I got lucky and was able to score a table for one upon arrival (sometime around 8PM). I was somewhat tucked away onto a little side street where the restaurant has three tables, so I didn’t get the indoor experience, but hey, a table is a table.
This would be my last meal in Lyon, and I wasn’t really sure what to get. Everyone said the chicken dish with morel mushrooms was the star of the show, so I thought of ordering that, until I saw they had the same dish, only with filet. The best part? It was only 32 euro for filet with morels. In the USA, New York specifically, that dish would easily be 80 bucks. I asked the server if I should do chicken or beef, and without hesitation, he said, “Get the steak.”
My filet with morel dish came out, and I think I got a little teary-eyed. The portion was massive and it came with a side of buttery rice. The sauce it’s served in was earthy, velvety, and oh so creamy. Turns out, I got my luxurious Lyonnaise meal without breaking the bank, after all. This was definitely my nicest meal in Lyon, and the atmosphere felt a bit nicer than anywhere else I had gone.
I also got chocolate ganache cake with a vanilla glaze for dessert. It was good, but the chocolate dessert at Bouchon Comptoir Brunet blew it out of the water.
Another great option to eat the best bites of the city is this secret food tour of Lyon.
We might have lost Tony Bourdain to tragedy, but eating my way through Lyon inspired by his choices certainly makes me grateful that we ever had him to begin with. Merci to Tony for always leading the best way.
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