Marseille is a victim of bad reputation. It’s frequently painted as unsafe, and unfortunately, many travelers fall for it. Turns out, the joke is on those who don’t choose to visit, because Marseille is fascinating due to its geographical proximity as a port city. The food here knows no bounds much thanks to the large diverse communities. Algerians, Comorians, Tunisians, and even Italians make up much of the population in Marseille. Since it’s right on the water, it obviously has a wide variation of seafood. If you’re ignoring mainstream media and choosing to come here (which you should), here’s what you need to eat.
If you’re feeling overwhelmed with the food options in Marseille or have limited time, book a food tour to get the best of the best.
North African Couscous
Yes, Marseille is in France, but the strong presence of North African communities gives it the bustling, slightly chaotic vibes of cities like Accra and Marrakesh. There are a ton of Tunisian and Algerian restaurants in town, and you’ll notice the majority of them have lines out the door. It can be tough to choose where to go, but wherever you end up, make sure to order couscous with meat (I got merguez) and veggies. Add a nice dollop of vibrant, spicy harissa, and you’ve got yourself a great meal.
Where to try it: I went to Le Palmier Marseille and paid around 7 euro for a huge meal. Bourdain went to Restaurant La Femina, but note that they were closed when I visited during August (which is common for France).
Street Pizza
You might be as surprised as I was to learn that pizza is a popular dish in Marseille. Post World War II, there’s a large influx of Italian migration, with many coming from Naples, and the presence of pizzerias around Marseille shows their lingering effects. There’s almost more pizza than anything else here: it’s impossible to walk around and not pass at least one pizza shop. Try street pizza for a quick, cheap meal on the go.
Where to try it: Follow Bourdain’s footsteps and go to Pizza JD.
Panisse with aioli
Think French fries but with chickpeas! Served in half-moon shapes, these little fried morsels are best with creamy, garlicky aioli. Was it the most exciting thing I’ve ever eaten? Not necessarily, but they did make a great snack with some French wine.
Where to try it: Just about every restaurant in the center of town will serve panisse, so find a place that fits your vibe and grab some panisse with a glass of wine while you people-watch.
Bouillabaisse
The MVP of Marseille cuisine is bouillabaisse. Marseille is home to this iconic dish, made with loads of seafood in a fragrant saffron-infused broth. Despite not being the biggest bouillabaisse fan in general, this was, by far, the best thing I ate while in town; but it’s pricey. Most will be over 40 euro. However, it’s easily a shareable dish; I just didn’t have that luxury since I was traveling solo. Bouillabaisse comes with little garlicky croutons that are meant to be slathered with crawfish-butter, and then soaked in the broth. Wait until they get just a little soft, but still have their crunch, and then eat them. It’s like an explosion of saffron, garlic, and oceanic flavors.
Where to try it: I got mine from L’Inattendu Restaurant and I 10/10 recommend doing the same.
Pastis
The only way to end a meal in Marseille is with some Pastis, a boozy anise-forward liquor that originated in the south of France. It’s typically served over ice and is a little too easy to drink; it tastes more like a healthy juice than a potent liqueur, but it’s said to help with digestion so drink up!
Where to try it: Pastis essentially tastes the same everywhere, but go to Café de L’Abbaye for the best views.
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