Summer in Europe is not for the faint of heart. Generally, it’s expensive, it’s crowded, and some destinations are too packed for their own good. If you’re braving Europe in the summer and you want a beach destination, you’ve likely looked at Nice, Monaco, Cinque Terre, Amalfi Coast, maybe even Portofino. All of them are fine options, sure, if you love sold-out accommodation and paying upward of 25 euro for a glass of wine. Closely situated to Nice and Monaco is a magical Italian beach town that seems to be Europe’s best-kept secret: Bordighera. There’s no gatekeeping here, so, if you want to visit a crowd-free alternative to those uber popular Euro beach towns, here’s what you need to know about Bordighera in the Italian Riviera.
Why Visit Bordighera
Bordighera is a great “dupe” city for several expensive and overcrowded alternatives. For example, the train in Bordighera was nearly empty, yet when I left to head to Monaco, I could not even move my arms due to the train being so overcrowded. Since it is only approximately five miles from the French border, you’re essentially getting almost a parallel experience geography-wise (similar weather and similar beaches) for a fraction of the cost and crowds.
How to Get to Bordighera
There’s a train station in town called Bordighera, and it’s one stop from Ventimiglia (the town that essentially connects Italy and France). There are direct trains from both Milan and Genoa. The nearest airport is Nice, France, which is about 30 minutes away.
Note: To get to the actual beach, you need to cut through these underground tunnels (as seen in the photo above).
What to do in Bordighera
My personal favorite thing to do in Bordighera was to hang out by my pool at Hotel Villa Elisa & Spa, which is where I stayed (more on that later). The beaches in Bordighera are not cliche white sand and aqua blue waters, but instead, the typical rocky Mediterranean beaches that you’d get in nearby Monaco and Nice. With that being said, hanging out all day at a beach club is certainly not a bad way to spend your time. My favorite beach club here was Seagull Beach Lounge & Bistro. There’s a nice downtown area with some good shopping options, and a few markets with fresh produce and local products.
Fashion-Tip: Fit into the Italian Riviera lifestyle with a chic black swimsuit and an oversized floppy hat.
Where to Stay
While Bordighera can easily be done in a day trip, I’d highly recommend traveling slow and staying for at least one night. There’s only one place in town that’s worth it, and that’s Hotel Villa Elisa. Conveniently located only ten minutes (walking distance) from the Bordighera train station, Hotel Villa Elisa is beautifully perched on a hill and covered in lush vegetation. Entering the hotel makes you feel special, and the entire experience feels curated. There’s a fantastic restaurant on site which serves up some delicious seafood pasta (gnocchi with swordfish, anyone?), and the hotel pool certainly doesn’t hurt. Best of all, there’s a fantastic spa on property, and every guest gets one hour of private time to soak in the spa’s hot tub and enjoy the amenities. Of course, you can also book services such as a massage and facial.
Average Costs
Bordighera is charming on its own, but the cost of my total stay is what officially won me over. As mentioned, I went to Seagull Beach Lounge, located directly in front of the train station on the beach. I got a beach chair with an umbrella, was there for around 5 hours, I was given some fried snacks on the house, ordered two Hugo Spritz, and some pasta vongole. The total? 34 EURO! Not to mention, the pasta vongole was the best I’ve ever had; it had thinly sliced aspargus throughout which was a nice touch. A glass of wine in Monaco is usually 30 euro, so 34 euro for an entire day at the beach, leaving happy and full, is a steal.
The Crowds
I cannot emphasize enough how secluded this beach felt. There were so few people that you would never know I was there during high season. I visited Bordighera in early August, and I counted maybe twenty other people total during my very long day at the beach. It was wild, and made me feel like I had a private respite all to myself.
DISCLAIMER: I might make a small commission from some of the links throughout this article, but the price is the same for you. This helps keep my business running so I can continue to provide free travel tips!
DISCLAIMER II: Hotel Villa Elisa hosted me for two nights in Bordighera.
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