Emilia-Romagna is commonly referred to as Italy’s “Food Valley” for good reason. It’s home to Parmigiano Reggiano, Balsamic Vinegar, Tortellini, Mortadella, Erbazzone, and various other iconic foods and dishes, 45 of which are protected by government standards.
While we know we can get a good cheap eat in Bologna and spend a foodie-centric day in Modena, what flies further under the radar is that in both the Province di Parma and the Province di Piacenza, both of which are within Emilia-Romagna, lay one of the most saturated concentration of castles out of the entire country of Italy. So much so, that this particular area of castles has a designated name: the Castelli del Ducato Circuit. Located within the Emilia part of the region, if you’re looking for an organized, secluded, and, of course, delicious, road trip through one of my personal favorite parts of the country, here’s how to plan a road trip through the castles of Emilia Romagna.
Start in Parma
You’ll need to first get to the region, and for this particular trip, you’re going to start in Parma. The easiest way into Parma is via train from any other major Italian city, including Bologna. After spending a day in this UNESCO City of Gastronomy, where you can eat some of the country’s best food, it’ll be time to jump in your rental car.
In total, this trip can easily be enjoyed in about 4-5 days.
Castle #1: Castello di Tabiano
Driving Distance from Parma: 32 km (20 miles) // 45 minutes
Starting off strong with Castello di Tabiano, a 1,000+ year old castle that only just opened to the public in 2016. Consisting of 12 rooms and 55 suites, my room had an infrared sauna in it, a backyard, and even my own personal hot tub. There’s a restaurant onsite with local dishes including some type of Parmigiano Reggiano creamy “cake” that I wish I had taken a photo of before completely devouring, and a few cat friends to keep you company. The views of the rolling hills of Emilia Romagna certainly don’t hurt the cause.
Best of all? You can spend the night here! Book a room here.
Castle #2: Castello di Rivalta
Driving Distance from Castello di Tabiano: 72 km (45 miles) // 1 hour, 2 mins
Built in the 15th century, Castello di Rivalta is in a village surrounded by medieval walls built in 1048. The main tower was built in 1470, which remains its most iconic landmark, and the castle underwent a second renovation in 1780. While you can’t stay in the castle itself, there are 18 rooms in the village just outside of it, with each room starting at 160 euros each. There’s also a museum with an entry cost of 14 euros a person, and a little insider scoop: Princess Margaret, Queen Elizabeth’s sister, was known to spend her holidays here.
Book a room here.
Castello #3: Castello di Vigoleno
Driving Distance from Castello di Rivalta: 59 km (36 miles) // 1 hour
If you ever thought you’ve been to a small town in Italy, think again. Vigoleno is home to only seven people, and is also home to Castello di Vigoleno. Owned by the Scotti family for five centuries, Castello di Vigoleno dates back to the 10th century and remains well-preserved in the Province di Piacenza. It’s perched high above the hills of the Stirone and Piacenziano Regional Park.
Make sure to try tortafritta when in town, a delicate fried piece of puffed dough that is best with some salty, cured meats. At Bollicine e Tortafritta, you can enjoy a local lunch with prime views of the castle.
If wine is on the mind, stop by Illica Vini for a taste that’s rooted even further back in tradition, with wine methods dating back to over 2,000 years old.
Castle #4: Castello di Scipione
Driving Distance from Castello di Vigoleno: 7.3 km (4.5 miles) // 10 minutes
Well-regarded as one of the oldest castles in the Province di Parma, Castello di Scipione is dated back to at least 1025. Built by Adalberto Pallavicino, Castello di Scipione was specifically designed to protect the salt flats — the ones that can now be credited with helping create some of the region’s best food (think of how salty the food is from this region is — Parmigiano Reggiano, cured meats, and so on — and it all comes together). Descendants of the original family still live here, and I may or may not have sipped some Champagne with one of them. Hey, some things are simply up to imagination.
You can spend the night here, but note there is no WiFi. Go digital free and live like they did in the medieval times. If you need something else to do in the area to feel like royalty, QC Spa Salsomaggiore is a wonderful way to unwind.
Castle #5: Castello Torrechiara
Driving Distance from Castello di Scipione: 47 km (29 miles) // 53 minutes
I would never want to say one castle is more important than the other — but arguably the most famous of the bunch of Castello Torrechiara. Particularly famed for its love story between Pier Maria Rossi and Bianca Pellegrini, there’s even a dedicated “love” room here at Camera d’Oro. Castello Torrechiara is widely considered one of Italy’s best-preserved 15th-century castles with stunning frescoes to drive the point home.
Pro-tip: grab a lunch of culatello and other local delicacies at Podere Cadassa.
Reggia di Colorno
(photos)
Driving distance from Castello Torrechiara: 39km (24 miles) // 44 minutes
Now, it’s time to end on a high note with the “Italian Versailles.” The Reggia di Colorno (also known as the Ducal Palace of Colorno) is an 18th-century royal palace just outside of the city of Parma. Featuring over 400 rooms and French-style garden, it’s no wonder how this magical palace got its nickname: there’s even a labyrinth like the one in Versailles. Napoleon’s second wife, Marie Louise of Austria, used Reggia di Colorno as her summer residence.
End back in Parma
Driving Distance from Reggio di Colorno: 16 km (9.9 miles) // 25 minutes (with traffic)
Your royal road trip has come to an end! It’s time to head back to Parma before returning your car.
Why not end with a Parmigiano Reggiano tour? Or perhaps a full tasting of Parma Ham, Balsamic Vinegar, and local cheese?
DISCLAIMER: I might make a small commission from some of the links throughout this article, but the price is the same for you. This helps keep my business running so I can continue to provide free travel tips!
DISCLAIMER II: Visit Emilia Romagna hosted me throughout my castles tour of Italy.
