There are vacations, and there are adventures. And if it’s adventure you’re seeking, it’s unlikely you’ll find a wilder one than embarking on a Madagascar road trip.
Due to the limited number and inconsistent flights in the country, road tripping is by far the best way to explore the world’s fourth largest island. However, a Madagascar road trip comes with its unique set of challenges. After having just spent two weeks trekking the country with Intrepid Travel, I learned quite a bit about traveling through this remote and rugged island. Here’s everything you need to know prior to your Madagascar road trip.
Let’s start with the boring but crucial stuff: visas!
A tourist visa is required for most nationalities to Madagascar. It can get confusing when reading the requirements online. The visas are separated into 15-day, 30-day, or 90-day tourist visas. My trip was exactly 15 days, and I wasn’t sure if that meant I should get the 15 or if they’d maybe push it for me to get a 30-day (the timing was off by an hour or so, making it just a little over 15 technical 24-hour periods). Luckily, a tourist visa is available on arrival for citizens of many countries, including those of the USA, like myself. The cost was either 10 USD or 10 euro, which was to be paid in cash, and since at the time of my visit, the dollar was weaker, I went for 10 USD to save some money! The entire process took maybe 20-30 minutes and was easy.
Let’s get the obvious out of the way: Madagascar road conditions.
Any quick search on road tripping Madagascar will likely show you videos and photos of cars stuck in mud, tipped over from a pot hole, or of uneven terrain. I’m here to confirm the rumors: yes, the roads in Madagascar really are that bad.
Keep in mind that in terms of GDP, Madagascar is ranked within the bottom 10 of the entire world. If you’re coming here for comfort, then simply don’t come. It’s really not a “comfortable” destination by any means, and out of all of the discomforts of a Madagascar road trip, the actual roads take the number one slot.
Expect long days on bumpy roads, crater-sized pot holes, and either extreme mud from rain, or extreme dust from dryness. On my trip with Intrepid, we would leave the windows open, and after an hour or so, I’d find that my hands or belongings had a thin layer of dust in them from dirt being blown into the car. Sometimes, when I blew my nose, black smut would come out. Expect VERY bumpy rides, and though something might only appear to be “120 miles away,” where in the US with a speed limit of 60 mph would take two hours, in Madagascar, that is likely a five to six hour car ride due to road conditions and not being able to go so fast.
To make long days on the road more comfortable, entertainment is crucial. Download an audiobook, music, and games, buy local snacks like dried banana chips and chocolate and pass them around, and just embrace the wild roads of Madagascar.
The bugs in Madagascar, I would quickly learn, are no joke. But even prior to experiencing them firsthand, a quick Google taught me that Madagascar is a malaria area. Pro-tip: If you’re an American and you’re traveling abroad prior to your Madagascar trip, it is WAY easier (and cheaper) to obtain healthcare for things like Malaria prevention abroad.
Since I was in the US when I realized I needed malaria pills, I simply setup a TeleHealth appointment with my doctor and was given a script, but my insurance only allowed me a certain number of pills, so I ended up having to take the trip just three pills shy. American healthcare, baby!
Malaria pills aside, bug spray is crucial. Take more than you think you’ll need — constant reapplication is necessary.
Aside from Malaria concerns, what other health concerns are there in Madagascar?
According to the Madagascar government site, if you’ve traveled through a yellow fever country within 14 days prior to your trip, you need Doxycycline. Even though I had not done this, I actually had unused Doxycycline on deck from a past Covid infection, so I brought that with me just to be safe.
Less on the pills front, and more on the hygiene front, there are a few things to keep in mind when traveling around Madagascar. Properly functioning toilets are rare to come by outside of hotels. For long days on the road, of which there will likely be many, be prepared to do your business either in a literal hole in the ground or “bushy bushy,” the common African road trip phrase for going in the bushes. Keep toilet paper with you at all times; you might even need it in your hotel at some points throughout your trip.
As for the ladies, while I would usually recommend a diva cup when traveling on your period, bringing pads and tampons is a little more realistic in Madagascar due to limited access to things like boiling water to disinfect, being able to wash your hands, and having access to sinks and toilets. With that being said, keeping hand sanitizer on deck is just as handy as toilet paper.
As I said under “Road conditions,” if you’re coming to Madagascar expecting comfort, you better rethink your plans.
You should come into the trip expecting that you’ll have no hot water; that way, when you do, which you likely will at one point or another, it will be a pleasant surprise. You’ll also want to pack shampoo, conditioner, and body wash, since those were seldom offered.
WiFi is extremely limited, often just at hotels, and even in then, in many cases it only works in the reception area. Service is also generally spotty, though an eSim can help. The local cell carrier is called Orange.
Several times during my two weeks there, the power would randomly go out, likely because someone plugged in something too strong (like a hairdryer, which, don’t expect to find those anywhere). I did not see air conditioning or heat offered at any of my hotels, though my vehicle with Intrepid had aircon.
You might think Madagascar is simply cute lemurs and majestic baobab trees, but the country is SO much more than that. During my 14 days across the country, I was treated to views of pristine blue waters meeting white sands in Ifaty, rice fields in Fiantarorosa, the lush jungles of Ranomafatana, to name Madagascar is an incredibly diverse nation geographically, and minimizing it to its two most popular attractions (lemurs and baobabs) is an understandable mistake, but doesn’t do the country justice. Be prepared to be wowed!
Madagascar was my 88th country visited, and it was one of the most culture-shocking I’ve been to.
There are 23 regions in the country, all of which are separated by ethnic tribes. The main religion is Christianity, with less than 5% of the population practicing Islam, and also less than 5% not strictly following a religion. The local language is Malagasy, but French is commonly spoken throughout the country.
Children seem genuinely curious when they see tourists, and will often say, “Vazaha!” (sounds like VAHS-sah) which translates to “foreigner.” It’s not an insult and is just the word they know — you’ll hear it a lot! You’ll also hear “bon bon” and be swarmed with kids expecting you to give candy. There are mixed opinions on whether this is ethical or not; many believe this reinforces bad behavior, and makes it so that every time kids see a group of tourists, they will expect candy. Locals also say the excessive candy damages the kids’ teeth, and access to dental care is low. An alternative is you can purchase something from the kids (a lot of times, you’ll see kids selling anything from baked goods to keychains) or you can give them something like pens and notepads instead. Next time, I would definitely travel with some extra pens. I had a few extra on me and when I gave them to kids, they got VERY excited.
You’ll also hear “Mora mora” referring to one of two things: the speed at which you should be hiking, or the way of life in Madagascar. Mora mora translates to “slowly, slowly.” Get used to the mora mora way of life here; things can run incredibly slow, anything from speed limits (thanks to the road conditions) to service to just the general sense of “urgency.” It’s a cultural commonality to take things slowly, so leave that hurried attitude at home. On the other hand, there’s “malaki laki” which is the *opposite* of mora, mora. Though you’re less likely to hear that as much, if you do, it simply means to pick up the pace.
You might assume Madagascar is hot year-round, but such is not the case. Busy season runs from July to November, with many tours beginning to run in May and June. In May and June, it’s technically still “winter” in Madagascar, so the nights and early mornings can get quite chilly. Bringing a jacket is not only helpful, but necessary.
If you plan to hike, which you’d be silly not to, know that the hikes in Madagascar greatly range depending on where in the country you go. For example, Isalo National Park in the south is dry and rocky, while Ramofana in the center is wet and muddy. Good hiking shoes with a strong grip are a must, and you’ll want to bring high socks and proper leggings that ensure you’re fully covered so leeches don’t get you. Yes, welcome to Madagascar.
As far as dressing conservatively, it’s not generally an issue in Madagascar, though out of respect when in smaller villages, covering your shoulders and knees and not wearing things like crop tops and short shorts is a simple act of courtesy.
If you forget anything, don’t worry: Madagascar is a shopping haven. Many of the second-hand clothes that are donated on mainland Europe end up at local markets in Madagascar. And the prices are very good, where negotiating and haggling is recommended. I bought a very serious Donald Duck jean jacket for !
From a Western tourist’s perspective, Madagascar is an affordable destination. The local currency is Ariyari, and approximately 45,000 ariyari equals 10 USD (roughly). However, when you only eat at hotels, or strictly buy imports like cheese and wine, those “affordable prices” can still add up. If you want the best deals, and a true look into Malagasy life and cuisine, ask the locals where they eat and go there instead. The prices at hotels for an average dinner are about 10 USD, but at a local restaurant can be as low as 2 USD.
Always keep cash handy, as many places do not accept card. ATMs aren’t entirely rare to come by, but sometimes, they don’t work because they don’t have enough cash in them, and many of them have a limit on what you can take (I saw limits range from 400,000 ariyari to 800,000 ariyari). The international airport in the capital and some hotels will offer money exchange, but you’ll get a better rate if you go to the ATM. USD and Euro are not accepted, though if you signup for a tour, like I did with Intrepid Travel, your guide might accept either currency as a tip. Ask them ahead of time to be sure.
You’ll want to hit up a few local markets, and there, cash is king. You can use your haggling skills to buy things like little lemur statues, keychains, postcards, vanilla beans, fresh fruit and veggies, or second-hand clothes (many second-hand clothes from mainland Europe end up at markets in Madagascar).
You might not think of the culinary aspect right off the bat when it comes to envisioning a trip to Madagascar, but Malagasy cuisine is unique in its own right. One of the most common menu items is brochette de zebu, or “zebu skewers.” Zebu is the cattle of Madagascar, and is found on just about every menu in the country. It’s like a leaner beef, and while I had many good versions of zebu, I had a few very chewy ones, too.
Sweet potatoes are also commonly served here, but not the bright orange sweet potatoes you might be used to. They look like regular potatoes but have a sweet taste. Sometimes they’re served simply boiled, other times sliced and lightly fried, other times cubed and roasted. Chinese cabbage is a common side dish (which my guide adorably referred to as “Chinese garbage” because of his thick dialect), which is a stewed bitter green (similar to a mustard green or collard green) with chopped peanuts. Beans like chickpeas are stewed with onions, a raw vinegary carrot salad was commonly served as an accompaniment, and absolutely no meal was complete without heaps of rice. Rice is a staple in Malagasy cuisine, and locals eat giant bowls of it for each meal. There’s also plenty of fresh fruit, with super sweet bananas and pineapple, and chocolate is an absolute must in Madagascar.
As for drinks, you’ll see fizzy fruit drinks (like carbonated apple juice), and for beer, the most common brewery seemed to be THB, followed by Queens. Madagascar does have one small wine region, and produces wine made with Couderc 13 grapes, but after just a sniff of the bottle, our group agreed that Madagascar does MANY things right, and wine is not one of them (yes, we also tried it, and it was somehow worst than it smelled). Imported wine from Italy and France are available at most supermarkets and hotel restaurants, but they come with a hefty price tag (I don’t think I saw any bottles of wine under and even that was rare, and often a pretty bad bottle of wine — most were closer to 20-25 USD).
Madagascar also produces a lot of rum, so seeing infused rums is not an uncommon sight. I tried “pok pok” rum, which is like a gooseberry-infused rum, and an incredible vanilla-infused rum at a small bar in Ifaty. Where I wildly went wrong was with my “mystery street rum,” where I ordered a taste of orange-infused rum from a sketchy looking bar in Ranomafana (it was a real, “What would Bourdain do?” moment). The drink cost 1,000 ariyari, or about 20 cents. I looked at it knowing it was a bad idea, but naturally, I drank it anyway. I paid the price via vomiting and having chills for 24 hours so…learn from my mistakes and don’t drink mystery street rum (there’s way too much good rum in Madagascar to have to suffer like that!).
For the more crucial drinks, it’s not advisable to drink the tap water, so much so that you shouldn’t even use it to brush your teeth with it. Bottled water is available at gas stations, restaurants, and supermarkets, and if you travel with a tour company, this is a great question to ask ahead of time. For example, Intrepid Travel offered each guest 1.5 liters of filtered water daily.
I personally joined a group trip because as much as my heart loves a good adrenaline pump, I was not willing to risk road tripping Madagascar without assistance for several reasons, the main ones being I’m not the best driver and also that I knew service in the country would be limited. After just one day on the road, I was VERY pleased that I decided to let someone else do the heavy lifting and drive, since, as mentioned, the roads in Madagascar are truly unlike any other roads I’ve experienced.
I would highly recommend Intrepid Travel, as I thought the itinerary was well-rounded, my guide was incredible, the vehicle was comfortable considering our group size, accommodations were overall good, and overall, I simply cannot imagine even trying to navigate the roads in Madagascar on my own. However, I know (Africa car rental) offers car rental services to tourists in certain countries, Madagascar being one of them, so by all means, if that’s more your speed, go for it (and godspeed!).
Finally, the most important thing: what should you bring on your trip? While every trip is different based on the itinerary, here are some basic things that I think every traveler to Madagascar could benefit from:
DISCLAIMER: I might make a small commission from some of the links throughout this article, but the price is the same for you. This helps keep my business running so I can continue to provide free travel tips!
DISCLAIMER II: Intrepid Travel hosted me on my trip to Madagascar.
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