I’ve traveled to all 20 regions in Italy — from exploring Scottish towns in Tuscany to falling in love with Umbria’s capital in just a day — but my audience consistently grills me on how little I cover Sicily (even though I had been to Catania before and would return for a number of reasons).
Noted! So, to make amends with not only them, but more so, myself, I booked a ticket to Palermo and spent an entire month in Sicily. I rented an Airbnb in Centro Storico and even eventually made my way over to Cefalu, Trapani, and Favignana. During my 30-day jaunt on Italy’s largest island, I learned a lot about Sicily, but more so about Palermo specifically. It’s a city of wonders, and it would be impossible to see all of its highlights in just one day. But, if I had to narrow my 30 days down to just 24 hours, here are the must-see highlights that you can’t miss n the Sicilian capital.
Don’t want to navigate the city on your own? Book a customizable local guided walking tour.
Start your day with a cafe con pistacchio
When in Rome — err, Palermo — as they say. I am a purist when it comes to my coffee order… unless I’m in Sicily. Cafe con pistacchio is exactly as its name suggests: a layered espresso drink with coffee, steamed milk, and a luscious sweet pistachio cream. The glass is often rimmed with even more pistachio butter and then crushed pistachios, and while it is indeed rich, you simply must try one when in Palermo.
Just about every bar in town serves them, but my favorite spot for this decadent buzzworthy drink was Chiosco Beati Paoli. because it was right by my Airbnb. For an even further decadent pistachio feast, grab a cornetto al pistacchio, too, or a pistachio cream-filled croissant.
Visit the Palermo Cathedral and Chariot of Santa Rosalina
Palermo is full of incredible landmarks, but the most iconic one has got to be the Palermo Cathedral. Dating back to 1185, this historic cathedral is one of the most photoworthy churches in Italy, and right next door is the chariot of Santa Rosalina. The chariot is a giant statue of a woman (Santa Rosalia) holding her hand out, and is known as the city’s patron saint. Legend has it that Santa Rosalina saved the city from the plague in the late 1600s.
Check out Italy’s largest opera house at Teatro Massimo
If you’re a fan of the Godfather, then you can’t miss Teatro Massimo, which was featured in the famed film. Teatro Massimo is one of Palermo’s major sights, and holds the acclaim of being the largest opera house in Italy (and one of the largest in Europe). The opera house can hold up to 1300 guests for any given show. If you want to watch the opera, check the schedule, or simply book a guided tour.
Try a mix of Sicilian plates at the Basile Focacceria del Massimo
One thing about Sicily that I learned quickly is the cuisine holds no bounds. Sicilian food is so vastly different from mainland Italian food, and if you move even 10 miles in any given direction on the island, you’ll be treated to an entirely new array of dishes. One of my favorite ways to try multiple plates is by going to a Tavola Calda, which quite literally translates to “hot table.” These are found all over Italy, but I especially enjoyed them in Palermo. My favorite one is right around the corner from Teatro Massimo: Basile Focacceria. How it works is, you go up to the cashier and tell the employee if you want a plate of three contorni (sides), or a pasta of the day (or if you’re me — both), and also if you’d like a beverage like water, soda, beer, or wine. You pay the cashier and then bring your ticket up to the designated counter.
It can feel a little intimidating as no one speaks English at this particular spot, but you got this! I ordered a plate of parmigiana di melanzana (eggplant parm, which is totally different in Sicily than how it is in the US and I highly recommend trying it), grilled radicchio, and Sicilian salad, which consists of green beans, potatoes, red onions, and olives. I also tried pasta con gli sparacelli, or pasta with broccoli and anchovies. The craziest part? All of this food, plus a glass of wine, was only 9 euros!
Indulge in the city’s best Cannolo (and other sweets) Dolceria di Santa Caterina
You think you’ve had good cannoli in your life, and then you try one in Palermo. Cannoli, the famed Sicilian sweet treat, can be found all over Sicily, but if you only have time for one, you must try one at the old monastery at Dolcieria di Santa Caterina. Located in ___, just look for the signs that say to the bakery, go up the stairs, and you’ll eventually find your way to a room full of traditional Sicilian sweet treats. I also recommend trying a casatta di’Sant Agata, or the “Saint Agatha cake,” which suspiciously looks like a woman’s breast. While cassata di’Sant Agata has roots in Catania, the story behind it is that Saint Agatha was imprisoned, and her torture was her breasts were cut off!
Speaking of legends, the story behind the cannolo (cannolo = singular, cannoli = plural), is that a haram was missing their emir, and so they made a sweet treat to replicate the body part of him that they missed the most. You can use your imagination, but..ummm..there’s a reason it’s filled with cream.
Marvel at the Baroque corners of Quattro Canti
Located right in the heart of Centro Storico, Quattro Canti is the “four corners” of Palermo, where two of the city’s most famed streets, Via Maqueda and Corso Vittorio Emanuele, meet. The Baroque intersection has statues on all four of its corners, and there are often street performers and vendors bustling here.
Try some street food at Mercato Ballaro
If your appetite still has any space, Mercato Ballaro is the most historic street food market in the city. Even if you’re understandably full, I would recommend at least taking a stroll through. If you can dare to find just a little bit of room in your stomach for more food, try popular street foods like arancine (not to be confused with arancino — that’s what they call it in Catania!), panelle e crocche, or the more adventurous pani câ meusa (spleen sandwich) and stigghiola (grilled intestines wrapped in a leek).
- Pro-tip: Palermo is one of the most notable street food cities in the world. For the best of the best, book this food history tour.
Check out the large tile collection at Museo del Maioliche
There are a lot of museums in Palermo, but if you only have time for one, head to the incredibly unique Museo del Maioliche. This is a large collection of tiles (over 5,000 of them!) in an 8-room private home. Entrance is only 10 euros, and you can see tiles originating in Sicily and Campania, some dating back as far as the 15th century, where they were used as flooring for aristocrats.
Grab Aperitivo in Kalsa
Kalsa is a neighborhood of Palermo that’s full of fashionable and hip cool kids, lined with bars, shops, and restaurants. It’s fun to take a stroll over here and simply check out the street life of Palermo. It’s also one of the best hubs in the city for aperitivo with a wide selection of bars.
Eat a traditional yet modern meal at Taverna Calderai
I’m about to make quite the endorsement — I dined out for the majority of my meals in Palermo, and while I ate plenty of delicious bites, the one true restaurant standout was Taverna Calderai. It’s a newer restaurant with handwritten menus and intentionally made traditional dishes. I tried involtini di pesca spada, or rolled swordfish (a typical dish of Palermo), and it is the best thing I ate during my month in Sicily. The staff is incredible, the ambiance is homey yet still sexy, and the prices are fair. I recommend making a reservation as this spot gets quite busy.
Finish with gelato at Dolce Capo
Finally, end your day with gelato! While you could also easily end your day with some drinks (Palermo is a late city and plenty of bars are open into the wee hours of the night), Dolce Capo Gelateria is open until midnight or as late as 2 a.m. most nights, and their fondente and pistacchio combination is one of dreams. They also have flavors like Zuppe Inglese and mint, veering outside of the standards, but luckily, they’ll help you make a decision because they give out samples. This was my favorite gelateria in Palermo and a perfect sweet way to end your day.
Optional: Best Day Tours from Palermo
If you have an extra day to spare and want to get out of the city, here are some great day tour options:
- Half-day trip to Cefalù for a beach tour
- Agrigento Valley for a culture tour
- Western Sicily for salt flats and a hilltop town
- Sicilian wine and olive tasting tour (only two hours!)
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